assistenza whatsapp: +39 347 211 9450

MUST Fermenting Ideas, where the future of wine ferments

posted by
MUST Fermenting Ideas, where the future of wine ferments
From 26-28 June in Estoril, a picturesque tiny village on the Atlantic Coast, half an hour drive from the fuzz of Lisbon, took place the third edition of Must Fermenting Ideas Wine Summit. There are of course many wine summits taking place across the globe , but some features of MUST make it pretty unique.

The high quality of the contents is undoubtedly one of these, the list of the speakers at this year’s edition included prominent names as Eric Asimov ( New York Times), Felicity Carter ( Meininger International), Miguel Torres ( Bodega Torres), Isabelle Legeron MW ( RAW Fair) just to mention a few.

Then worth mentioning was the perfect organisation, a fact particularly remarkable considering we were in Portugal and not in Germany and the beautiful venue: the elegant, modern Congress Center of Estoril just few steps away from the stunning beaches. But more then all listed what makes MUST quite special and unique is the tiny, we may say “ cosy” format of the event: the participants themselves were kind of selected “ limited release” giving them a perfect chance to interact and ferment together, quite spontaneously I would say!

You literally could drink your coffee with Eric Asimov or have an intimate chat with Gaia Gaja on climate change! There was a spirit of tribalism, of community, of sharing, and as the motto of the summit states: “ when different ideas come together they ferment something great, the future”.

The most interesting presentations I heard there? I can honestly say they were all excellent and quite heterogeneous in topics. Some were pretty alarming as the presentation of Miguel Torres on climate change and its effects on European viticulture, others were stilmulating and thoughts-provoking as the one of Rodrigo Sepulveda Schultz on innovation, hi-tech and IA in viticulture and winemaking. Many hot topics of the wine industry were discussed in the passed 3 days as the state of the natural wine movement, the sense ( or not) of points system and ratings and of planting everything everywhere. We talked about China as market and as producer, about what terroir really means, about e-commerce, policlonal selection vineyards, subscription economy, “hotels for insects”, digitally born vertical brands etc. Exciting and multifaceted arguments all fermenting together in a stimulating, energising mix..

A real fermentation of ideas, observations, provocations.

Of course there were not only talks but some good wine to drink too, we tasted a selection of hidden gems of Portuguese indigenous varieties made by Dirceu Vianna Junior MW. But maybe the presentation that mostly impressed me was the one by Rui Falcao, affirmed Portuguese wine writer and co-creator of MUST.

Rui spoke in his presentation about Colares, one of the most peculiar and unusual terroirs in Europe. Very unique viticulture: centenary old ungrafted vines literally laying in the sands followed by ultra-traditional winemaking: spontaneous fermentations and extended ageing in big seasoned barrels of Brazilian wood with release of the wines after 10 years of cellar ageing in average. Bottled in small sized 0,500 ml bottles the wines of Colares are legendary for their remarkable ageing potential of several decades.

Sons of the Ocean and the wind these wines are thin and vertical with a restrained, savoury profile, where protagonist is not the fruit but an unusual mix of salty, earthy, herbal and iodine notes...This is due to the singular microclimate: vines literally snaking on the sand ( to protect themselves from the violent winds) in that foggy, windy and inhospitable kind of place that is Colares. Defined by Rui as “ one of the most improbable places for viticulture in the world” Colares bears wines with low alcohol ( achieve full maturation of the grapes is still a problem there, no matter the climate change), unique aromas and legendary ageing capacity.

A real “ unicorn wine” considering that today less then 30 ha of these heroic viticulture vineyards still survive. The two local varieties are Ramisco for the reds giving thin, almost anorexic wines with high acidity and tannins and Malvasia di Colares for the solutionswhites giving fresh, sapid wines, oceanic and herbal deep in their soul instead of fruity and aromatic.

My next goal as a oeno-traveller? To do a harvest in Colares, breathing its fogs smelling of algae and gathering the fruit of the vines-snakes laying in the sand. And concerning my agenda? MUST Fermenting Ideas 2020, a must. Because the world of wine in this very dramatic moment of unprecedentedly fast changes in climate, politics, economics and global social structure more then ever before needs to join forces and to ferment together new solutions
  • share on Facebook
  • 3883
  • 0
  • 3


post a comment